German legacy in Penang stretches back 200 years, from forgotten settlers to modern industry

GEORGE TOWN, July 6 — On the streets of George Town, it is easy to spot the cultural legacies left by Chinese merchants, Indian Muslim and Malay traders and British colonial administrators.

Among these remnants of colonial and Peranakan architecture in the heritage city, there are German influences that are lesser known.

The Germans first arrived in Penang more than 200 years ago, sometime in 1801, according to Malaysian German Society committee member Clement Liang.

By the late 19th century, Germans had become the second-largest European community in Penang after the British, establishing businesses, practising different professions and helping shape the rapidly growing port city.

Their story, however, came to an abrupt halt with the outbreak of the First World War.

“During the First World War, Germany became Britain’s enemy, so the whole German community was chased out,” Liang told Malay Mail.

Many were deported or forced to leave British Malaya, while those wishing to return faced decades of restrictions.

The first German Association established in 1898 before the Germans left during World War 1. — Picture by Opalyn Mok

However, the early Germans had already left their mark in Penang, as evidenced in old photographs, familiar roads and landmark buildings.

The very first German company to set up in Penang was Behn Meyer, which opened its branch on Weld Quay in 1891 as a trading house for tin and spices.

Liang said it was only after Malaya gained independence in 1957 that Germans were once again welcomed, this time as investors helping to drive economic development.

Two main German companies, B.Braun and Robert Bosch, were among the pioneers to set up plants in Penang during the state’s 1970s industrialisation.

The Malaysian German Society (MGS) was established in 1962 as a social club for Germans living and working in Penang.

When it was first established, the organisation did not have its own office and was holding meetings in the homes of the organisation’s president.

About 25 years ago, they managed to rent premises in Jalan Air Itam from the Penang Island City Council (MBPP) that comes with a large field.

“There are about 800 Germans living and working in Penang now, but this number fluctuates as some are based here a few years before going back,” Liang said.

MGS has about 300 members and its committee members often have to change whenever one of them is sent home.

“It is why the administration is managed by Malaysians to keep the organisation running and it is also why they needed a Malaysian in the committee too,” he said, explaining his role in the organisation.

Clement Liang pointing out a plaque with information on MGS outside the building. — Picture by Opalyn Mok

MGS runs German language classes in collaboration with the Goethe-Institut for students planning to study in Germany and also holds monthly German film screenings.

“We have a German-language library and we have social activities throughout the year,” he said.

Its most recognisable event is Oktoberfest, a tradition the society has upheld for more than five decades.

”We’ve been running Oktoberfest for more than 50 years,” Liang said.

”It is probably the only place in Malaysia, and maybe even South-east Asia, where we celebrate it as an authentic open-air festival like the one in Munich,” he added.

Held on the last Friday and Saturday of October, the celebration transforms the society’s compound with blue-and-white Bavarian decorations, traditional Oompah music and German cuisine.

”We wait until Oktoberfest in Munich finishes before flying the Oompah band over,” he said.

Though Oktoberfest has been banned in other states in Malaysia, Liang said the Penang state government has allowed them to carry on with the annual festival.

The festival attracts between 2,000 and 3,000 visitors annually and remains open only to ticket holders.

“It is not exactly an open public event as it is ticketed and held within the MGS compound,” he said.

While Oktoberfest may be the public face of German culture in Penang, Liang believes the community’s most enduring legacy lies scattered throughout George Town itself.

He said this is why they decided to work with Penang Heritage Trust to list out the German Heritage Trail in George Town.

“Many of the early 20th century postcards depicting old Penang that collectors treasure today were photographed by a German photographer, Ernst August Kaulfuss,” he said.

He said there is also the influence of the German Bauhaus movement on Penang’s post-war architecture.

Examples of the Bauhaus movement include the Rifle Range flats and the People’s Court in Cintra Street, where the structures emphasise simplicity, practicality and prefabricated construction.

In this year’s George Town Heritage Celebrations, MGS highlighted another German contribution that many unknowingly grew up with — fairy tales.

Liang said stories such as Snow White and Cinderella originated in Germany long before they were adapted by Disney.