Albay artist reimagines modern barong to honor his grandmother, Bicol couture

ALBAY, Philippines – Sexy, chic, and unapologetically colorful barongs — descriptions that would have raised eyebrows in Philippine fashion a decade ago. 

While the industry once treated the barong tagalog as a static relic, Albay designer Zen Rodrigueza was already breaking the mold, weaving pride and inclusivity into every fiber of a reimagined national treasure.

“I want the people wearing my designs to wear their pride unapologetically — unconventional, if need be. I want every fiber, bead, and detail to highlight their story and the causes they represent,” Rodrigueza said.

SKETCH. Driven by an innate love for art and a restless hand, Rodrigueza casually sketches his ideas as they strike — whether in the quiet corner of a cafe or amidst the bustling streets of Legazpi City. Photo by Summer Untalan

Raised by his seamstress grandmother, Rodrigueza grew up immersed in the art of garment-making, a craft that filled his childhood memories and early notebooks. Even then, the young Zen understood how the warmth of an intricately crafted fabric and the confidence of a well-made design could empower its wearer.

“I saw how my grandmother would delve into every detail of the clothes she tailored. The warmth and care that go into every stitch are the fundamental elements of a design that uplifts whoever wears it,” Rodrigueza shared. “And that is what I want people to feel when they wear my clothes.”

HOMAGE. Jim Regala wears a modern barong by Rodrigueza, designed as a tribute to the fisherfolk of Masbate. Photo by Studio Kosmos

Weaving identity

For Jim Regala, one of his early clients, Rodrigueza’s work is more than just fashion; it is an art form that does not hide behind glitz or expensive fabrics, but instead finds beauty in a faithful respect for the client’s story. 

“Zen’s designs understand the importance of the occasions that are most dear to us. During my graduation, I wore more than just a barong; I wore the pride and support of my hometown, especially my parents who funded my education through fishing,” Regala said. 

He added: “It was like wearing a masterpiece that spoke to the depth of who I am, giving me the confidence and warmth I needed for a milestone I had prepared for my entire life.”

Aside from honoring the wearer’s story, Rodrigueza envisions the barong as a bold statement that challenges norms and offers a canvas for wider self-expression. This approach has made his designs stand out, earning pageant distinctions and fashion awards across the region.

“When people think of the barong, there is a singular, classic image that comes to mind. But we made it more colorful, more fluid, and more inclusive,” Rodrigueza said. “If you want a barong that speaks to how you truly express yourself — a baklang barong — then you have Zen to design it for you.”

BOLD. Departing from the traditional beige, Rodrigueza crafted a striking magenta barong for Albay pageant contestant Ievo Gielo Señdan which secured the Best Attire award. The design features iconic leaf motifs and a daring backless silhouette. Photo by Keith Jefferson Boboyo

Breaking patterns

Rodrigueza began his career crafting barongs for the pageant circuit, but his journey was often marred by the common practice of exploiting emerging designers.

“Starting from scratch often means agreeing to terms that are disadvantageous to you as a creator. I want to change that,” he said. “Young, emerging designers deserve the same support, respect, and celebration of their art as established names receive.”

Rodrigueza’s experience is far from an isolated case in the Philippine garment industry. According to a study by Fashion Revolution, approximately 442,000 workers in the Philippines face systemic exploitation, ranging from stagnant wages to disadvantageous contractual deals. 

Other international advocacy groups, including The Green Side of Pink, which focuses on sustainable and ethical fashion, have also highlighted this widening gap between creators and corporations.

“For decades, industry workers worldwide have fought for fair wages and safe working conditions, demanding laws to protect them from persistent exploitation. The increasing complexity of globalized supply chains has allowed firms to shirk their responsibility, leaving workers defenseless,” the group stated in a report.

DENIM. Rodrigueza continues to push boundaries, experimenting with unconventional materials to redefine the texture of the formal wear. Photo by Mark Manlangit

For Rodrigueza, fostering support and respect for fashion workers is not just about sustaining the arts; it is about carving out a distinct cultural identity for local communities like Bicol.

“If we want a thriving Bicolano couture, we must support emerging designers, nourish their growth, and patronize art that truly represents our community, culture, and identity,” he said. – Rappler.com